Introduction

2002 was the Year of the Outback, and this is my description our journey  through outback New South Wales, South West Queensland and South Australia. We travelled to Birdsville via Mildura, Lake Mungo, Broken Hill, Tibooburra, Camerons Corner and Innamincka. The trip home was via the Birdsville Track, Oodnadatta Track, William Creek, Coober Pedy, Berri and the fine wine district of the Coonawarra. We travelled over three weeks and completed over 8000 kms. Accommodation ranged from traditional outback camping to shearer’s quarters and underground motel rooms. It has to be read to be believed!

Let the journey begin.

Day One Friday 2^nd August 2002 – Rowville to Charlton:

Departed Melbourne at 2.40 pm after spending the day packing. It was a last minute decision to leave today, but we couldn’t wait another sleep. Drove the 272 kms to Charlton and stopped at the Foundry Palms Motel before driving the 50 metres down the road to the Charlton Hotel where we had dinner. Early to bed for an early rise tomorrow.

Day Two Saturday 3^rd August 2002 – Charlton to Mildura:

Departed Charlton at 9.20 am on a wet and cold morning. There wasn’t much traffic on the road thank goodness as conditions were not ideal. Arrived at the Calder Caravan Park to 16 degrees and annoying rain. Booked into a cabin, as the weather certainly isn’t conducive to tents. Spent a couple of hours in the pub before topping up the supplies and other items we had forgotten to pack in the rush.

Day Three Sunday 4^th August 2002 – Mildura to Lake Mungo:

Departed Mildura at 9.00 am. Rain had affected the road surface and the sign for Lake Mungo told us only the track to the Walls of China was open. The road had lots of wet spots that were quite slippery, and it didn’t take long for the truck to become covered in red mud. Arrived at Lake Mungo Visitors Centre to find our key waiting for the Shearers Quarters. Be advised, if you intend coming to Lake Mungo, ensure you have the correct change, otherwise you will need to leave a nice donation (as we did). The facilities here are absolutely fantastic considering how far it is from civilisation. The Shearers Quarters has electricity, hot water, and showers, flush toilets, rainwater and neat and tidy rooms with bunk beds.

The drive out to the Walls of China was quite slippery and bumpy with lots of corrugations, and with a speed limit of 40 kmh, it ensured that anything that wasn’t tied down in the back of the truck ended up on top of James. After a walk through the Walls of China, and finding no archaeological remains, we departed. We discovered that the self-drive tour track had been opened and so began the 70 km round trip that had many interesting points on how the area had formed and how pastoralists had arrived, conquered and then withdrawn from an area so rich in the continents development. After arriving back at the Shearers Quarters and a quick cold ale, we had a look at the woolshed that had operated for over 100 years before the final sheep had been shorn in 1978. The smell of lanolin was still evident and the work done by the National Parks and Wildlife Service to ensure that the woolshed still stood in its former glory has been fantastic. As the sun began to set, James and I dashed out to the Walls of China again to attempt to get some good shots whilst the sun set. Unfortunately, there wasn’t much colour, but oh well. It was dark by the time we returned and we soon had the fire roaring. Dinner was cooked on the gas barbeque available to Shearers Quarters guests. A few hours spent in front of the fire before bed was extremely relaxing under the stars of our great outback.

Day Four Monday 5^th August 2002 – Lake Mungo to Broken Hill:

It was quite a cold wake up, but it didn’t take long to boil the billy and get the first coffee into us. James was quite impressed being able to get his nutri grain and milk warmed up in the microwave in the outback. The drive was again through occasional muddy spots, dodging the multitudes of emus, until hitting bitumen again 40 kms from Pooncarie. We had a look at the mighty Darling River, that was actually “at its lowest for forty years” according to the bloke in the General Store. The drive to Menindee was uneventful, as was Menindee itself. The old hotel that Bourke and Wills stayed at has been renovated and persons under 18 years are not allowed entry, so stuff them! Enjoyed paying 67 cents a litre for gas (NOT!) before driving the most boring 110kms to Broken Hill. Arrived at the Lake View Caravan Park to find they had no idea where the key to the van I had booked was and there was no water as the pipes were getting fixed. We were given a cabin instead for the same price, so… Drove out to the Flying Doctor display before finding a shopping centre for a few essential items left behind in Rowville. The sun was again dipping low and as the clock had to be wound back half an hour for Central Time we were a bit confused. It was a mad dash back to the Caravan Park to get the camera before screaming out to the sculpture site and rushing up the hill, just in time as the sun set!  Back to the Park for another bbq dinner and, as soon as I stop typing, a DVD.

Day Five Tuesday 6th August 2002 - Silverton:

Drove out to Silverton this morning on a fine and sunny day, although the wind was fairly strong. Visited the studios of John Dynon and Peter Browne, the old goal and of course the Silverton Hotel. Silverton is situated 25km northwest of Broken Hill and is now a ghost town. The gaol, which closed in 1943 has now been restored as a museum and houses many interesting relics from the past. The town is also a popular place for filmmakers having been the location for Mad Max 2, A Town Like Alice and Razorback. Back at Broken Hill we visited Pro Harts studio, viewing many expensive masterpieces. Drove to the School of the Air, but tours are only early in the morning so we missed out. Did the banking and topped up the supplies before returning to base. Pre packed the truck as much as possible before settling down for a few cold ales.

Day Six Wednesday 7^th August 2002 – Broken Hill to Tibooburra:

Woke up to a cold morning. It was sunny, but cold. Left the Caravan Park at 9.00am and filled up on the last of LPG until Coober Pedy. This drive was a mix of bitumen and dirt all the way to dry and dusty Tibooburra. The landscape is devoid of water and we came across very little native or introduced wildlife. Stopped at the Packsaddle Roadhouse for lunch before continuing onto Milparinka for a couple of cold ones in the pub. It was quite hot now and so we were glad to finally get to Tibooburra. The Caravan Park was dry and dusty and so we decided to pay the $73 for a room at the Motel. Had a look at the old courthouse and discovered the history of Tibooburra and its law and order. Also visited the National Parks Office for updates on the road conditions further ahead. It was time for another cold ale so we settled on the front doorstep of the Family Hotel for a couple. Headed back to the Motel to have a shower and wash the dust off our bodies, having already washed it out of our throats. Met a couple from Ferntree Gully who were travelling along the same routes as us up to Marree. Had dinner at the pub with them and the red wine certainly sent me to sleep.

Day Seven Thursday 8^th August 2002 – Tibooburra to Innamincka:

Today is the beginning of the exciting journey to Innamincka via Camerons Corner and the Old Strezlecki Track. We left at 9.00am and again found some bitumen on our way to Camerons Corner, and the track was certainly easier than it was ten years ago. There are still sand dunes and the never-ending corrugations, but it took us no time at all to get to the Corner. Through the Dingo Fence Gate we went, and up to the now fenced off Corner Post. I was in South Australia and New South Wales whilst James was in Queensland. A beverage at the Corner Store was a must (it was 12 o’clock somewhere in the world).

The road to Merti Merti was over 210 red sand dunes, but it had been recently graded and so we flew along. We all suffered from the tummy rolls as we drove up and then down at a leisurely 80 kmh. The Old Strezlecki Track was sandy but also in good condition so we arrived in Innamincka just after 2.00pm. We checked into our rather small caravan and ate lunch in the hottest conditions we had faced.

Innamincka grew around a hotel that serviced the early drovers who brought cattle down the Strzelecki Track. It is on the banks of the Cooper Creek and before federation of the Australian colonies in 1801, was a customs outpost where duty on goods coming into the colony was collected.

The ruins of the Australian Inland Mission hospital (1328) still stand in the town. Close to the spot where the Innamincka Hotel once stood, a large cairn with two memorial plaques commemorates the expeditions by Captain Charles Sturt (1844-45) and Burke and Wills (1860-61). Will's grave can be seen near Cooper Creek, west of the town and a memorial to Burke's last resting place is along the creek to the east. Another historic spot is King's Marker, a memorial on the spot where John King, the sole survivor of Burke and Will's tragic expedition was found.

Of course as the pub was next door, we felt the requirement to make ourselves known. It wasn’t hard of course as we were the only ones there for the first couple of hours. Left to cook dinner in the tiny van and after singeing the hairs of my arms, finally worked out how to cook with the 1940’s gas stove. We had an early night in and James watched a DVD.

Day Eight Friday 9^th August 2002 - Innamincka:

Today we completed the 140km return trip to the Bourke and Wills Dig Tree that is just inside the Queensland border. There is an entry fee of $11 per vehicle that I believe is a bit rich. Two of the original blazes have now been grown over, so it is no longer worth the rough drive and the $11. Returned to the shoebox for lunch before settling into the pub at 2.30pm for a long session. As it turned out, we ended up dining there and left at 11.00pm. James was, as usual, the centre of everyone’s attention, and so he was quite reluctant to go to bed. I however was not feeling the best, and spent much of the night in the toilet. Believe me it had nothing to do with the alcohol consumed, but I believe that my body was not used to the crappy water.

Day Nine Saturday 10^th August - Innamincka:

Today was a sad day, as this was the day that I was to spread Mum’s ashes into the Cooper Creek. The morning was spent catching up on the clothes washing before we headed off after lunch to visit Burkes memorial. We spent a fair while searching for an ideal setting where the ceremony could take place, and finally decided to spread Mum’s ashes near to the place Mum, Dad and I camped at last time I was here in 1992. So to the strains of Sarah Brightman singing, “Time to say goodbye”, James and I let Mum go into the serene Cooper. It was an extremely emotional moment for us all, but I had to smile when I looked up into the red gum above to see two cockatoos snuggling together. I took a video of the scenery before returning to the pub for the rest of the daylight. Cooked dinner on the bbq before retiring for another early night.

Day Ten Sunday 11^th August – Innamincka to Birdsville:

The 418 km trip from Innamincka to Birdsville on the Cordillo Downs Road is one of the toughest drives one can make. The track was full of bulldust patches followed by red sand dunes before settling into the horrible gibber stones. We also had to contend with a horrendous head wind that was sweeping the dust into the air making it impossible to see two feet in front of us at times. Stopped at Cordillo Downs, once the biggest sheep station in the Southern Hemisphere, before continuing the rest of the journey to Birdsville. The wind was still horrendous at Birdsville and so it was with extreme difficulty that we set up camp. Had a quick visit to the Birdsville Hotel before returning to cook dinner in the wind. Again retired early, as we were all exhausted after today’s drive.

Birdsville is the famous isolated outback township that is little more than a pub and few houses. It is hard to imagine any place in Australia that evokes quite the sense of loneliness and isolation as that of Birdsville, the tiny settlement at the northern end of the notorious and dangerous Birdsville track. Birdsville sits on the edge of the Simpson Desert and operates like some kind of mysterious magnet to people who want to go to the most isolated place on the continent.

Birdsville was originally named Diamantina Crossing. The town was renamed Birdsville by the owner of Pandie Pandie Station who was amazed by the diversity of bird life which inhabited the area. It is extraordinary to find seagulls in the salt lakes that exist in the area.

Birdsville came to importance in the 1880s when the drovers and station owners in western Queensland realised that moving cattle through the Channel country and down the Birdsville Track to the railhead at Marree (which had been opened in 1884) was the most efficient way to transport cattle to the coastal markets.

Pre-Federation Queensland established a customs collection point at Birdsville that was only 10 km from the border. By the late 1880s there were two hotels, three general stores, a doctor, a bank and a police magistrate.

Birdsville's raison d'etre virtually disappeared with Federation in 1901 when interstate trade was freed and since then it has been declining in importance. It currently has a population of about 100. The current fascination with isolated places has meant that a regular stream of 4WD adventurers, all determined to travel the 500 km of the Birdsville track, pass through the town. This adventure travelling has done much to sustain the town's faltering economy.

Day Eleven Monday 12^th August 2002 - Birdsville:

Awoke this morning to discover the bolts connecting the steering arm to the passenger side front wheel were loose and I was loosing grease. Popped over to the service station where they quickly pulled apart, inspected, re-greased and tightened the bolts. I was expecting the worst, but it only cost me $42. I will have to keep an eye on it for the rest of the trip though. Today we ventured out to Big Red, a 72 km return trip. Big Red is the biggest of the sand dunes on the edge of the Simpson Desert standing at 40 metres in height. The signposts are actually quite deceptive, as after dropping my tyre pressures to 16 psi, I cruised over the dune in high fourth. It was only after reaching the bottom and looking at the GPS that we knew that this track might have been over Big Red, but it was not the killer track that is famous. Another 2 kms further along the dune is where the mighty Big Red torments drivers. There was a group of guys in six vehicles who were giving it a go. Two of the vehicles were Suzuki Sierras and no one had yet made it to the top. After a few attempts, the first vehicle (one of the Suzuki’s) made it over and the fun began. Four more vehicles made it over before the last guys told us to go. We hit the bottom of the dune at 3800 rpm, 90 kmh in high third and breezed to the top first attempt. It was such an adrenaline rush. The last bloke also made it over before a photo session took place. We farewelled the guys, as they headed off across the Simpson Desert, and we headed back to Birdsville. It was still extremely windy so we decided to have dinner at the pub. A tour bus was in town so we had to dine outside in the beer garden, but at least it was out of the wind. It was getting cold though so after eating we headed back to camp and prepacked the truck as much as we could. My swag was covered in red dust, so it wasn’t a particularly great sleep.

Day Twelve Tuesday 13^th August 2002 – Birdsville to Mungerannie:

This morning we filled up the petrol tank and headed off down the inner Birdsville Track. We had heard that it was in good condition and the outer track was chewing up tyres. It was quite an easy run, allowing speeds up to96 kmh, and it wasn’t long before we hit the main Birdsville Track. Again the condition of the track made it seem more like a road so it wasn’t long before we reached Mungerannie Roadhouse. One observation was the absolute lack of kangaroos or emus. We booked into a room and had lunch before taking a dip in the naturally heated pool. The water leaves the ground at 68˚ C and fills this magnificent earthen pool. It was difficult to get James out, but with dinner at the pub as a lure, he finally left the warm waters. Dinner was fantastic and a long night loomed, but we managed to leave at 7.30 and hit the sack straight away.

Things seen along the road included:

Mt. Gason Bore:
An artesian bore about 2 km. from the track to the west.
Lake Howitt:
A dry saltpan west of the track and north of Mitta Mirra Bore.
Mitta Mirra Bore:
Hot water gushes to the surface from this bore and runs hundreds of kilometres before cooling sufficiently to use.
Gypsum Cliffs:
Just north of the Kirrawadinna Creek gypsum deposits can be seen just east of the track.
Mungerannie Gap:
The highest point on the road (1500m).
 Mungerannie Roadhouse:
The roadhouse is adjacent to the Mungerannie Homestead, 313 kms south of Birdsville and 204km north of Marree, on the Derwent Creek. It provides fuel, food, accommodation, emergency repairs and camping and is the only service area along the track.
Ooroowilannie Ruins:
The ruins of the homestead are just north of the Ooroowilannie Swamp.
Mulka Homestead:
Just south of the new Mulka Homestead the ruins of Mulka Store can be seen 1km. west of the track. Alexander Scobie established it in 1883.
Natteranie Sand hills:
These sand hills average 9 metres in height and stretch from the western side of the road to the Simpson Desert. The 'flood' road rejoins the track just north of the normal crossing and these sand hills were the most difficult and notorious part of the track in its early days.
Cooper Creek crossing:
Cooper Creek Crossing and the turn off to the 'flood' road and ferry. When this massive river is in flood the ferry is used in daylight hours only and provides access across the river for cars and attached trailers providing the wheels are contained within the safety chains of the ferry. Caravans are not allowed. The old barge which provided the crossing from 1949 to 1956, the 'Tom Brennan’, is restored and on display at the Cooper Crossing.
Usually the 10km. crossing is dry.
Etadunna Homestead:
A memorial beside the track remembers the efforts of Lutheran missionaries who ran the aboriginal settlement at Killalpaninna, the ruins of which are approximately 20km. north of the station. It was built in 1866 and provided for some 200 aboriginals until its close after the severe drought of 1915.
 

Day Thirteen Wednesday 14^th August 2002 – Mungerannie to Marree:

Today was another easy drive down to Marree, and the end of the once challenging Birdsville Track. It was an uneventful journey with little to see. Once known as Hergott Springs, Marree was the staging post for camel trains that transported goods from the railhead to the outback and Alice Springs. For 20 years until 1980 it was a major break-of-gauge station on the "Ghan" rail journey to Alice Springs but the new rail now runs some 200 kilometres west.
It is now a small service centre for surrounding stations and travellers along the Birdsville and Oodnadatta Tracks.

Things seen along the road included:

The Dog Fence:
A little further south is the dog fence that stretches from the New South Wales border to the Great Australian Bight near Streaky Bay, a distance of over 9,600 kilometres. The fence was built in an attempt to keep marauding dingoes from the sheep flocks grazing to its south.
Lake Harry:
Around 30km. north of Marree the government struck its first bore for the stock route. The deserted homestead was occupied until 1951 and was a busy camel trading post. In the 1860's some 200 date palms were planted experimentally at Lake Harry. Baron von Mueller, a noted early botanist, theorized that date palms would provide a food and shade source around outback waterholes and palms were planted at many remote waterholes. Lake Harry can be seen to the east of the road.

Day Fourteen Thursday 15^th August 2002 – Marree to William Creek:

The drive to William Creek along the Oodnadatta Track was full of things to see. The Oodnadatta follows the Old Ghan Rail line, and so there are many old ruins of previous stations and water points. Not far out of Marree, the most southern edge of Lake Eyre reaches the track. Unfortunately the salt started too far out for us to reach it as boggy mud stopped us in our tracks. The viewing points were also not high enough to get any decent photos. Just before Coward Springs are a couple of bizarre natural springs etc.. Coward Springs was one of the big stops for the Ghan and it too has hot springs in which to bathe, but it was a lot smaller than Mungerannie and was too early in the morning to hop in. Arrived in William Creek in time for lunch and also booked into a room. It was the biggest room we had stayed in so far with ensuite to boot. After lunch we washed our clothes (first time since Innamincka) then I caught up on our trip notes, before we had a look around William Creek (permanent population of 12 people). Soon settled into the Hotel for a few cold ales before having dinner there. Early night before we head to Coober Pedy tomorrow.

Day Fifteen Friday 16^th August 2002 – William Creek to Coober Pedy:

The road was not quite as good as what we had become used to, but it was still an easy run. A slight hangover meant that we travelled rather slowly. We had booked into an underground back packer accommodation and thankfully it was not too difficult to find in main street Coober Pedy. It was also nice to find LPG available, even if it was 67.9 cpl.. The accommodation itself was quite good actually with full cooking facilities, lounge area and bunk beds for all. We only had a tour operator sharing the place with us so it gave James a lot of space to run around.

Decided to go and have a look and the ‘Old Timers Mine’, a self-guided tour around an old mine and living quarters. Originally a family was extending their underground house when they broke through the wall into the old mine shafts first dug in 1918. They also came across a fair amount of high quality opals. In fact when the shop face was being prepared, more opals where found. Most are still on display in their natural seam in the shop foyer. It was a great tour and we all enjoyed it, especially when they eventually turned the lights on after we had difficulty following the mud map.

Had a quick look at the “Big Winch” before doing some shopping. Decided against going to the only hotel in town as Coober Pedy has a fair amount of derelict aboriginals that wander the streets drunk and continually fighting. Instead we went to the Underground Bar in the luxury Desert Cave Hotel next door to where we were staying. Of course it was dark by the time we walked out, but having no watches and no external lighting (being underground) it is difficult to keep track of the time. Cooked our dinner at the accommodation before retiring to bed after chatting with the tour operator.

Day Sixteen Saturday 17^th August 2002 – Coober Pedy:

Today we just had a drive around town. Went up to the Golf Course for a laugh – all dirt, carpet tees and oil scrapes for greens – James didn’t believe that is was actually a Golf Course. Visited Fayes Underground home that was dug out by 3 women over 30 years ago. Tried three times to do the Underground Mine Tour, and eventually got to do it at 4.00pm. Went to an underground Serbian Restaurant for dinner before an early night.

 Attractions:

• Umoona Mine and Museum: Gallery and historic display. Aboriginal Interpretive Centre.

• Wind Turbine Generator: Next door to Power Supply Plant.

Day Nineteen Tuesday 20^th August 2002 – Nuriootpa to Penola:

Day Twenty-One Thursday 22^nd August 2002 - Penola:

More wineries. Walked streets in morning rain. Visited old houses etc.

Day Twenty-Two Friday 23^rd August 2002 – Penola to Rowville:

The final run home! We took the Wimmera Highway to Horsham, then the Western Highway to Melbourne. We had a late start but managed to get home just after 3.00pm.

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